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Making a $1,000 laser into a $10,000 laser

Control panel, and manual power control Cutting bed Laser tube, beam exit 

Laser tube and machine Stock "cooling system"

If you follow this blog you’ll know I do a lot of stuff with my cheap $1,000 dollar Chinese laser engraver/cutter. I’ve had it for almost a year, and I think I can clearly define all it’s shortcomings.

  1. Cutting area is small (8x8in)
  2. Controller software is poor
  3. Laser power control is manual
  4. Poor ventilation for fumes
  5. Poor/no laser cooling system
  6. Not very fast with engraving tasks

Keeping all those things in mind, I’ve decided to start planning a re-build of my laser using existing and new parts, and a case/frame.

I'll use a generic step/gcode controller for the movement, there seems to be many generic controllers of this type that could be controlled with PWM step code (mach3) or serial gcode.

For axises, there would be the regular X and Y for "standard" laser movement, a powered (low speed) Z for table height, and an optional rotational axis for the round materials adapter.

Additionally, will be a PWM control for the lasers power and the air assist, probably from a separate controller that may be custom.

All settings will be computer controllable, so that eventually when I have time to write some software, I can make a material preset manager to adjust the table, air and power for specific saved materials.

Eventually, I would like to have a job template system that has all the settings for a job that would adjust the general settings and start cutting by simply selecting a saved job. This is probably a long way away, but I'm keeping it in mind while planning.

Laser - Side View (early beta)The new box will be about 640mm deep (25in), 540mm tall (21in), and about 800mm wide (32in). The cutting area, will be somewhere in the range of 400x600mm (16x24in), possibly a bit larger depending on how large a few of the components end up being once I've designed them.

The machine will be split into two parts, the top and the bottom. In general the electronics and laser tube are in the bottom, and all the cutting bed is in the top. That makes the machine taller, but allows a much larger cutting area without hugely increasing the footprint. That design will require one extra mirror.

The frame will use 20mm and 40mm 80/20 (t-slot) aluminum extrusions (See 8020.net). It is easy to work with and does not require very many tools or welding to build with, also looks cool.

After all that planning and work, I hope to have a laser engraver that is comparable with the more expensive/convenient versions that are out there now. Keep tuned for more updates in the coming months.

Print | posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 11:57 AM | Filed Under [ Original Posts DIY Laser ]

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# re: Making a $1,000 laser into a $10,000 laser

Very nice, had one of those lasers myself for a while, and had the same thoughts about ripping out all the electronics and starting over. However, since I do have access to the "expensive/convenient versions", it wasn't worth the trouble.
Why not go a little taller and mount the tube vertically? This would eliminate needing an extra mirror, wouldn't it?
Otherwise, I'm interested to see how this turns out.
11/18/2009 4:49 AM | ridefst

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